Ingredients

Salt for boiling, plus more to taste

1/3 pound fresh meat-filled tortellini

1 bunch chives

3 pounds chicken back, necks, and wings

5 sprigs fresh tarragon

10 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

2 carrots, scrubbed and cut into 3-inch lengths

2 celery stalks, cut into 3-inch lengths

1 small onion, quartered

2 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon ground paprika

6 canned plum tomatoes

1/4 teaspoon saffron

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 orange peel

Preparation

Remove excess fat from chicken parts, and rinse; transfer to a large stockpot. Add all remaining ingredients, except salt, tortellini, and chives. Add 4 quarts water, and bring to a boil. Skim scum from stock as it rises.

Reduce heat to medium. Simmer 2 hours; skim scum as it rises. Pass through fine strainer; discard solids. Skim fat; season with salt.

Bring large pot of salted water to a boil. Add tortellini; cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Pour soup into 12 very small serving vessels, such as sake cups. Place a tortellini in each; garnish with 2 chive sprigs. Serve immediately, and refill as needed.